Download Free Airvac Zx 6000 Manual. 1/25/2018 0 Comments HP Integrity rx2600 server and HP workstation zx6000 Getting Started Guide 2–3 Troubleshooting you find a hardware problem keyboard problems The keyboard doesn’t work. How The keyboard cable is correctly connected. Plug the cable into the correct connector on the back of the system. Fastrak Touch-Free; eFusion Friction; FusionX Hybrid Combo; Water Wizard 2.0 Touch Free. Technical Manuals; Terms & Warranty; Photos & Videos. Equipment Photos; Car Wash Locations Photos; Videos. Product Videos; Car Wash Location Videos; pdfairVacDownload. Home / Equipment / Support Equipment / Vacuums / pdfairVacDownload Follow. Product Documentation, Manuals, Instructions. You can replace a lost manual or learn even more about our products by downloading any of the following documents in PDF format.
Overview:. Designed Specifically for Rework of High Thermal. Mass Components on Large, High Complexity PCB's.Large Machine Footprint:10' x 4.5' x 6.5' (LxWxH)Quick Links:.Next Generation Solder Fountain TechnologyDesigned specifically for lead-free rework of plated-through-hole (PTH) components on large, high thermal mass assemblies. The PCBRM100 uses proprietary technology that significantly reduces copper dissolution.Key Features/Benefits:The 24' x 26' board carrier includes a pull-out feature to provide ergonomic loading/unloading of heavy boards (figure 1) and a tilt-up feature to allow operator access to the bottom of the board for fluxing and positioning bottom side supports (figure 2).
The carrier is programmable in the 'X' and 'Z' axes and uses linear encoders for accuracy and repeatability. Spring-loaded carrier arms allow for thermal expansion of the large board during rework.Figure 1: Ergonomic Loading/Unloading Slide and Tilt-Up Board CarrierFigure 2: Board Carrier in PositionThe EZ-Line alignment system features a down-looking digital camera with zoom lens mounted on a programmable 'Y' axis that superimposes the image of the solder stack over the top of the board (figure 3). X/Y joystick-based controls (figure 4) are used to quickly and accurately align the component with the solder stack (figure 5). The desired rework position can be taught on-the-fly or stored in the program.Figure 3: UnalignedFigure 4: Joystick ControlsFigure 5: AlignedA 28' x 28' quartz composite top and bottom IR preheater (16Kw) with 25 watts per square inch heating density and independent temperature control provides rapid, uniform preheating of even the largest, most thermally challenging PCB's. The preheater panels have an extremely high radiant efficiency and do not depend on external reflectors.
The top preheater panel has s programmable 'Z' axis which allows the preheater to 'sandwich' the PCB based on its topside topography, thereby creating a high-efficiency oven-like preheating effect (figure 6). A thermocouple attached to the PCB provides temperature-based preheating control for process repeatability.Figure 6: 28' x 28' Top and Bottom Preheater with Temperature-Based PreheatingThe heart of the PCBRM100 is a cast iron solder pot with titanium pump components (figure 7). No coatings of any kind are used to handle the aggressive nature of lead-free solder alloys.
The pot has a solder capacity of 90 pounds and is nitrogen inerted. An internal chambering system along with a servo-motor driven pump creates a laminar solder flow with extreme thermal uniformity across the wave (+/-2˚C). Quick change titanium solder stacks direct a flow of solder against the lead pattern of the component to be reworked (figure 8). The solder pot is programmable in the 'Y' axis and has quick electrical disconnects so that the existing pot can be removed and replaced by a spare pot with a different solder alloy.Figure 7: Cast Iron Solder Pot with Servo-Motor Driven Pump andProgrammable 'Y' AxisFigure 8: Titanium Solder StackWhat makes the PCBRM100 truly unique is the integrated Focused Convective top and bottom Heating systems (FCH). After the entire board is preheated, the PCB is moved to a position just above solder contact position.
The programmable hot gas head brings the nozzle (figure 9) down and over the topside of the component to be reworked. The nozzle is fed by a 2Kw heater so it has the power needed to heat virtually any component regardless of size or thermal mass. A laser distance sensor (figure 10) automatically squares the nozzle to insure a correct fit over the component. Two (2), 7' convective heating blades focus heat on the bottom side leads.
Download Free Airvac Zx6000 Manual Online
How to Troubleshoot & Repair AirVac Central Vacuum Systems. Begin at START, test each repair issue, and narrow the problem down to a numbered solution. You can also print a. To see the repair options, scroll down below the chart to the numbered solution. Also use the topics to the right, where many questions have additional information. If can't find the help you need, please or call the number at the top or bottom of this page.AirVac central vacuum troubleshooting repair can be done by a homeowner or a qualified dealer. Many times, dealers will be able to pick up on things others may miss, simply because they are involved with these vacuums on a regular basis.
Since central vacuum troubleshooting is virtually standard across all brands, you can choose the most capable dealer in your area to help guarantee great service. AirVac Central Vacuum Repair & Troubleshooting Solutions #1 - Electrical failure or short in vacuum head or hose. Validate the wall inlet valve has 110 volts (two pin hole connection types), or the regular electrical wall socket has voltage (pigtail corded hose types).
When there is intermittent power there may be a short. Check cord connections from hose to brush. With the vacuum head spinning carefully manipulate each connection point individually including the hose entering the handle. Check power brush reset button and on some vacs the neck tilt switch by listening for it to pop out just before the neck goes into the upright position (may be jammed with lint). Test vacuum head directly by getting 120 volts to the vacuum head cord.
(If your wall inlets have two holes for power see if the head cord will plug directly into them bypassing the hose.) Be sure the power brush neck is not in the upright position. If the power brush works, the problem is in the hose. The most common issue with the hose is a failed diode fuse molded into the electrical plug on the wall end. The most common repair parts:. (The hose handle switch really goes bad in this issue.). Open vacuum head and put power directly to motor. If it runs for 10 minutes it is okay.
If not then replace vacuum head (motors cost nearly just as much) or replace hose, head, and accessories with a brand new (compatible with all vacuum systems) or a (if compatible with your hose and connection wands).#2 - Clog, not located in system pipes. Check power brush head for a clog by turning it over. Remove wand tube to see inside vacuum neck for possible clog. Check wand tubes by removing them and looking through them.
Check hose for clog by plugging it into a properly flowing wall inlet valve and disconnecting it from any accessory or wand. If no suction present through the handle then remove the clog using a long stiff object, such as a butter knife, through the hose starting at the wall end or push a garden hose through vac hose. Don't turn water on! Or remove the clog by reversing the air flow through the hose by connecting it to the intake on the main unit or pressing the handle end into wall valve using tin foil lump to activate the connection.#3 - Clog located in central vacuum system pipes or tubes. NOTE: Proper installation of a central vacuum virtually guarantees no clogging. Any long stiff object will get stuck at the first elbow just behind the wall valve which is designed to catch items. Otherwise, a sloppy installation can catch an object which will catch debris over time.
Many times the build up will cause it to break way but in the rare instance that the clog continues, here are the best ways to repair the vacuum clog. Isolate exactly where clog is - by determining the inlet furthest from the vacuum unit that is not suctioning well. The clog is between that inlet and the unit and is the one you will be working on. You can also find the clog by running a numbered Styrofoam ball through each inlet. Find which balls made it to the power unit.
Put hose into wall inlet as usual, hold hand over other end and let the pressure build up. Quickly release hand and let air rush in. Try this multiple times from various inlets, even ones that are close but work properly. The build up pressure and release creates rhythm and movement in the pipes and many times repairs the clog in the central vacuum system pipe.
To allow more pressure and air flow use a. Check the space immediately behind wall inlet, and the connection right at the vacuum collection tank by pulling it off (it should not be glued on).
It is not uncommon for a clog to found right there. Run a through the clogged inlet valve. It has a good change of suffocating the clog and allowing the pressure to build up so it can all be pushed through. Try pulling the clog backwards through the pipe and inlet valve. Use a portable vacuum or shop vac directly into the wall valve.
Let pressure build then release, do this multiple times. Be sure to allow air to flow backwards - remove the central vacuum unit's bucket or top to expose the filtration. Instead of a portable vacuum, the central vacuum tank itself may be used.
Remove from wall, set next to wall inlet, plug it into electrical, connect hose to tank port or tank intake, and put hose handle end into wall inlet and seal with hand. Run electrician's fish-tape or plumber's snake, through pipe and try to hook object/clog. Use less sturdy types as the central vacuum pipe is only 1/16' thick PVC. Any recent construction or workers who might have driven a nail into a pipe (esp.
Closet organizers, phones, or alarms)?. If the clog will not come out then locate its exact location by one of several ways. A) Run paper towel through and listen for humming or vibration. B) Create louder noise using a ping-pong ball. Insert in inlet and turn on unit (remove inlet to get ball in). Hopefully the area is easily accessible. Cut the pipe and pull out the clog.
Use a coupling to easily put the pipe back together.Very important: Once the clog is removed, check to be sure by running a through each inlet. If they don't all show up do it again with numbers on each to determine which valve is clogged.
Pipes that run underground can sometimes coagulate with debris from moisture. Proper installation is running central vac pipe inside three inch irrigation pipe. Run 10 pounds of rice through system into unit, repeat. If not effective, trench old lines and replace.#4 Bad inlet valve. The low voltage connection is no longer reaching the contacts that touch the hose when inserted. This can be for a variety of reasons depending in the inlet valve.
Inlet valve parts are not available. Thankfully 99% of inlet valves are the same type across all brands everywhere. Inlet valves that do not match the variety in the link above may or may not be available or replaceable., or give us or a dealer a call for help.#5 - Low voltage wire cut or junction pulled apart.
Recent construction done? Tripped over wire in attic? Any rats?.
Detached garage with main unit and line run underground? Recent digging?. If you find the break, re-splice broken wire (coppers together and tins together).
Wires could be disconnected at the main unit. Here is no polarity so wires can go back into either connection.
Can't find the break? Options are to A) re-route wire from any working inlet or power unit to the section of wire or the unfuctioning inlet. Try to tie new wire to existing bad wire and pull it through. It's easy and convenient.#6 - Clog in the main unit filter screen or there is a clog in the hose.
Download Free Airvac Zx6000 Manual Pdf
For bagless, bottom-emptying central vacuums, be sure to reach up into the vacuum unit to find a filter or screen that needs to be cleaned, replaced, or scraped off. Check hose for clog by plugging it into a properly flowing wall inlet valve and disconnecting it from any accessory or wand. If no suction present through the handle then remove the clog using a long stiff object, such as a butter knife, through the hose starting at the wall end or push a garden hose through vac hose. Don't turn water on! Or remove the clog by reversing the air flow through the hose by connecting it to the intake on the main unit or pressing the handle end into wall valve using tin foil lump to activate the connection.#7 Unit is good, pipes have leaks. Recent work done on house?. Recent wallpapering or paneling?